VIDEO: If you’re ready for another Italian bike hotel review, here’s a good one. This time, I traded the rolling hills and Strade Bianche of inland Tuscany for something unexpectedly different – the Tuscan Riviera and the Hotel Residence Esplanade in Viareggio. Yes — Tuscany has a Riviera. And it’s stunning.
Watch my video review below, and see more at the PEZCycling Youtube channel
Viareggio sits at the northern end of Tuscany’s 500-plus kilometers of coastline, in a sun-soaked strip called Versilia. Think miles of wide, sandy beaches, the Apennine Mountains rising just behind the town, and easy access to Pisa and Lucca. It’s also home to the only dedicated bike hotel in the region: Hotel Residence Esplanade.
I based myself there for several days — timed perfectly with three stages of the Giro d’Italia — to explore the riding, the region, and the hotel’s cyclist-friendly amenities. Here’s what I found.
Getting There: Easy Access from Pisa or Florence
Reaching Viareggio couldn’t be simpler. Pisa Airport is only a 30-minute drive away, and Florence is just over an hour. I flew into Pisa, looped over the port city of Livorno, grabbed a rental car, and rolled straight to the hotel with ease. Minutes after arrival, I was looking at palm trees and settling into the relaxed seaside vibe.
Vintage bike and historic photo of the hotel
First Impressions & Hotel History
The Hotel Residence Esplanade has more than a century of history — originally built as a grand seaside hotel in the early 20th century. You know you’re in the right place the moment you spot the vintage Italian racing bikes proudly displayed in the lobby.
Inside, the hotel blends classic charm with modern upgrades across a wide range of room types.
Rooms: Modern, Clean, and Comfortably Quiet
I stayed in a Comfort Room — quiet, dark, and perfectly modern. Rooms on the backside of the property are particularly peaceful – and all the rooms have excellent blackout blinds. But if you’re looking to elevate your stay, the hotel also offers:
Suites
Romantic rooms
Rooftop rooms with private jacuzzis
Whatever your travel style or budget, there’s something for you. Check out rooms in the Hotel’s gallery here.
Rooftop Lounge & Full Wellness Spa
For unwinding, the rooftop lounge offers views over the coast — complete with lemon trees and a relaxed vibe. Downstairs, there’s a private-bookable spa featuring:
Hot and cold baths
Sauna & steam room
Plush towels
Soft, meditative music
Full massage service
It’s a proper wellness center, and a welcome treat after a big day on the bike.
Gym & Testing Lab: Surprisingly Advanced
One of the hotel’s most impressive features is its modern fitness center, which rivals a high-end training studio. Beyond treadmills, spin bikes, and free weights, they have diagnostic equipment that analyzes your stride, balance, and overall biomechanics.
Virginia, who runs the fitness center, walked me through the data — and diplomatically pointed out all the areas where my body “could improve” (there were several).
Cyclists Welcome: Bike Room & Pro Guests
As a certified Italy Bike Hotels property, the Esplanade offers proper cycling infrastructure:
Secure bike room
Space for your personal bike
High-quality rental bikes
On-site guides available
When I was there, the Trek regional team was also staying at the hotel during the Giro and Tirreno–Adriatico. If it’s good enough for the pros…
Guided Riding: Mountains, Coastline & Giro Stages
I didn’t know the local routes well, so the hotel connected me with two excellent guides: Marco and Rasa of Magnum Aventura.
Rasa & Marcao – excellent guides
Rasa is a two-time Olympian with the Lithuanian track team
Marco is an engine on the bike — and an accomplished ballroom dancer
Together, they planned a perfect ride toward Lucca to watch the Giro’s time trial. We rolled along the foothills of the Apennines, climbed a few punchy ascents, and traced parts of the next day’s Giro stage route.
The scenery is classic Tuscany-meets-seaside:
Shaded roads lined with ancient trees
Hilltop views back to the Mediterranean
Small medieval churches and ruins
Smooth, quiet tarmac
The final descent into Lucca was unforgettable — especially as Marco led us through a “secret entrance” under the medieval wall and up onto the ramparts. Moments later, we were watching the time trial blast past on the city walls.
Post-Ride: Rain Sprints & Rewarding Meals
Our return to Viareggio turned into a race against a fast-moving rainstorm. We nearly made it — the last 3–4 km were a full downpour sprint. A proper adventure.
Back at the hotel: hot shower, cold beer, and later, a Negroni in the bar.
Dinner at the Esplanade is table service (not buffet-style like many bike hotels), and the menu is elevated and excellent. I had a beautifully fresh salad, followed by a rich pasta with ragu Bolognese — exactly what I needed.
Breakfast: A Cyclist’s Dream Spread
Breakfast is an Italian classic done right:
Fresh croissants
Cereals & yogurts
Sandwiches you can slip into your jersey
Eggs & bacon
Local cheeses and cold cuts
Fresh juices
Made-to-order cappuccino
Everything you need for a big day out.
What Else to Do in Viareggio
Beyond the bike, Viareggio is full of surprises:
You might have sen this float on the Giro 2025 stage 11 feed when the peloton rode right past it.
Super-Yacht Capital of the World
The city’s shipyards build many of the world’s biggest luxury yachts — at roughly a million dollars per meter. Bring your checkbook.
Carnival of Viareggio
Every February, Viareggio hosts Italy’s second-largest Carnival celebration. The enormous floats, built in aircraft-hangar-sized workshops, are a sight you won’t forget.
The Passeggiata
Every evening, locals join the traditional passeggiata along Viareggio’s massive beachfront promenade. It’s one of the best in Italy — wide, lively, and perfect for pre-dinner strolling (with an aperitivo, naturally).
Why I Recommend Hotel Residence Esplanade
This is a family-run hotel, and it shows. The staff have been here for years and genuinely care about providing excellent service — something I consistently find in the best Italian hotels.
In short:
Perfect location
Easy airport access
Outstanding riding variety
Excellent cycling support
Great food
Comfortable rooms
Wellness & gym facilities
Lots to explore off-the-bike
If you’re planning a cycling holiday in Italy — or just want a seaside getaway with great food and culture — put Hotel Residence Esplanade in Viareggio on your list.
And tell them Pez sent you.
The post Hotel Residence Esplanade Review: Cycling, Seaside Luxury, and Tuscan Charm in Viareggio appeared first on PezCycling News.
