I had the pleasure of visiting the charming town of Gananoque this spring, aptly named the ‘Gateway to the 1000 Islands’, a town and region that has drawn visitors for generations. I had so much fun discovering the town’s unique businesses, historic charm and natural beauty, cycling the incredible 1000 Islands Parkway Trail.
The 1000 Islands Parkway Trail is a fully separated 37km paved trail that follows the St. Lawrence River from Gananoque east to Butternut Bay, with a further 13km on-road connection to the city of Brockville. From Rockport to Mallorytown Landing to Brown’s Bay Beach, there are so many delightful stops along the trail for refreshments, swimming, boat tours, learning opportunities and more.
Discovering Gananoque
The town of Gananoque itself is worth the trip, and I found just as many things to do off the bike as on. Colourful Victorian homes, fragrant spring blossoms, and a bustling yet relaxed main street set the tone. You don’t need to be on two wheels to enjoy this place – just walking around town is a joy.
There’s lots to do here: boat tours that weave between the 1,864 islands, kayaking, waterfront museums, live theatre, and no shortage of quality cafes and restaurants. My wife and I stayed at the Howard Johnson Inn, conveniently close to the downtown core, the waterfront, and just a short ride from the trailhead.
Hitting the Trail: Gananoque to Brockville (Approx. 100 km return)
After a hearty breakfast at Laverne’s Tavern (highly recommend The Pan – poached eggs, roasted veges and chorizo), I was ready to start my bike ride, cycling from Gananoque to Brockville and back in the day, 37km on the trail plus 13km on road (one-way), and back, for just over a 100km return ride.
Connecting to the trail from Gananoque was easy – you continue east along King Street, cycle under the 401 highway and immediately are greeted with the start of the trail. King Street can be a little busy, though there is an on-road bike lane. If you have small children or you’re planning a much shorter ride, I would recommend starting at the paid parking lots at Landon’s Bay hiking area or the village of Rockport.
The first 20km section of the trail is very peaceful and passes homes, cottages and forests, and a number of river lookouts, rolling up and down as it follows the shore of the St. Lawrence River. There are limited major road crossings but keep an eye out for vehicles as it does pass by many driveways and sideroads.
Rockport (20km from Gananoque)
The quaint waterfront village of Rockport is a great mid-morning break or early lunch stop depending on how far you plan to ride. The Rockport General Store is a must-visit, with a range of souvenirs, ice cream, and some sandwich options for lunch, which you can enjoy on their patio or carry on to another picnic location.
There are 1000 Islands cruise options here (plus at Ivy Lea at the 13km mark), and some great restaurants and patios to enjoy, like Cornwall’s Pub, with a beautiful waterfront patio and an English pub feel. If you’re just rolling through, there are public washrooms available which you can make use of.
Rockport to Mallorytown Landing to Brown’s Bay Beach (20-36km from Gananoque)
If you’re looking to cycle just a shorter portion of the trail, make it this 16km section. You’ll get some big sweeping views out over the river, and pass Canadian Shield rock outcroppings, which form part of the Frontenac Arch, the southernmost part of the Canadian Shield connecting to the Adirondack Mountains. To learn more about the biodiversity of the region visit the Thousand Islands National Park Visitor Centre at Mallorytown Landing. At the visitor centre they have washrooms, lots of picnic tables, a waterfront pavilion, and a fantastic playground for families.
Brown’s Bay Beach (36km from Gananoque)
If it had been a warmer day I definitely would have gone swimming at Brown’s Bay Beach. This beautifully maintained sandy beach now features a new beachfront facility (built in 2024), complete with washrooms, change areas, a playground, water refill stations, and a snack bar. It’s a lovely destination whether you’re cycling or just out for a sunny day.
The Road to Brockville (36–52 km)
Beyond Brown’s Bay, the trail continues for about 4km before transitioning onto roadways. The final stretch into Brockville involves riding on Highway 2 – manageable for experienced riders but not recommended for beginners or families due to narrow shoulders and heavier traffic.
Brockville
The small city of Brockville has some serious old-world charm, with a beautiful collection of heritage buildings and historic attractions to explore, being one of the oldest cities in Ontario.
I met my wife (who wasn’t riding) in Brockville for lunch and we had a delicious meal at 1000 Islands Brewing Co. I was struck by the quality and range of the beers on offer, as well as the food. Highly recommend the brown ale, and gyoza dumplings and bruschetta. They have a fun street-side patio perfect for a summer afternoon.
We had a blast exploring the Brockville Railway Tunnel, which is unlike any other tourist attraction I’ve been to in Ontario. This half-kilometre former railway tunnel was the first of its kind in Canada, built in the mid-1800s, creating a train route that avoided main street from Brockville’s waterfront, heading north out of town. They have fun colourful lights illuminating the tunnel, and music, and it feels like you’re in another world. We also spent some time down by the water where we saw massive tanker ships passing along this portion of the St. Lawrence Seaway.
Back in Gananoque
After our time in Brockville, I set off and cycled back to Gananoque, enjoying all of the river views in reverse, and met my wife for dinner in town. We had heard great things about the Stonewater Pub, which had a unique and cozy atmosphere and just the right amount of quirky. Great food and drinks (really enjoyed the session ale I had and their veggie portobello burger) and we enjoyed a lively open-mic night, making us feel like locals.
They next day I was happy to explore some experiences off the bike, and we had a relaxing morning wandering in and out of bookshops, vintage stores, and cafes. To start the day, we had some of the best and most affordable breakfast sandwiches I’ve ever had at Panache Bakery.
That morning we visited the 1000 Islands History Museum, which tells the history of Gananoque and the region, from the original Indigenous inhabitants, to early European settlers, and the so-called ‘Golden Era’ of the 1000 Islands in the early 20th century when many of the famous old hotels and mansions were built, including Boldt Castle.
We had pre-booked a one-hour 1000 Islands cruise through City Cruises which was a fantastic way to wrap up our stay in the area. It gave us a different view of the region’s iconic islands – each with its own legend, like a cottage dubbed ‘Napoleon’s Hat’ thanks to its odd shape.
Leaving town that afternoon we felt like we had just scratched the surface of what Gananoque had to offer. The 1000 Islands Parkway Trail is what brought me to the area (and I would come back just to ride it again) but there was so much more to do once we were there – incredible food, history, culture, shopping and stunning natural attractions. We’ll definitely be back soon to experience more.
Plan Your Gananoque Getaway
- 1000 Islands Tourism – Find out all you need to know about visiting the 1000 Islands including additional experiences and accommodations
- South Eastern Ontario – 1000 Islands Parkway Trail Cycling Itinerary – Find the route map, and a full itinerary with suggested stops
- Ontario By Bike, Great Places to Cycle – South Eastern Ontario – Find certified bicycle friendly businesses and more route and ride ideas
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Article and photos by Peter McMurtry of Ontario By Bike
Sponsored Content Partner: Cornwall Tourism
The post Food, History & River Views: Gananoque & the 1000 Islands Parkway Trail appeared first on Ontario By Bike.
